Tuesday, September 18, 2012

First Encounter with the Appalachian Trail


First Encounter with the Appalachian Trail

Near the top of Blood Mountain

I unzipped the door to my tent and peered out, the clouds were still low and heavy. They had been keeping the warmth from the sun off the mountains all day while making sure everything under them was wet and chilly. I groaned from the thought I wouldn’t get to see the sunset, but also because I had to blow my nose again. I was out of toilet paper from using it to wipe my nose all day so I had resorted to the gauze pads as my Kleenex. I left the flap open and lay back on my sleeping bag, hoping my condition wouldn’t get any worse.
When I had woken up that morning, I had a deep cough, a sinus infection that made my eyes feel fat in my skull and a fever that would suddenly turn into a chill then back to a fever again. I knew it was going to be a tough day walking up and down mountains on this small trail. Plus, I had around 75 pounds of almost useless gear weighing me down and giving me serious neck and shoulder pain. With extreme discomfort and a cold getting worse, I set out for a 10 mile hike through the Appalachian Mountains of north Georgia.


Justus Creek crossing
On the trail I had I already hiked through, I passed dense forest full of old and young trees, creeks so inviting their steady music made breaking there an easy excuse. Mountain ridges were consumed with life, green thriving life. Life that smelled and felt ancient. The air all around was bursting with pleasant smells; fresh, clean air, the way God intended it to be. Surrounded by animals that wouldn’t let themselves be seen, but heard all throughout the day, busy with their tasks of finding food and avoiding humans. For 14 miles in 2 days, I had only seen a few people myself, and that was at the only dirt road that cut through my trail.
Cooling off
I started my journey at Amacolola Falls State Park. They host the 9 mile approach trail to the summit of Springer Mountain, the official southern point of the Appalachian Trail. My aunt Kari and cousins Ty and Tanner came with me to hike the first couple miles and get a view of the waterfall.  I registered my car and parked it in their long-term parking spaces. A few little adjusts to the gear and I was headed in the mountains.
1 mile in and ready for a break
Top of Springer Mountain!

After a rough start; meaning back tracking to my car to dump weight and fix a broken strap, I was now ready to try again. The approach trail is mostly uphill, and steep uphill. “Strenuous” is the word the state park uses. With a heavy pack the crooked walking stick my cousin found was much appreciated. I had 5 miles to go until I reached the summit, but the “strenuous” hike took its toll fast. I made camp early that day.
I finished the last 5 miles the next morning and so began my journey on the historic Appalachian Trail.


View from Neel's Gap
As I lay in my tent that third evening, I felt defeated. I was already sick and getting worse fast, I had blisters on my back, horrible pain in my shoulders and neck, a tent and sleeping bag that were meant for very cold nights in the Rocky Mountains, way too much gear that could have helped several damaged campers prepare for multiple days before rescue. What I was packed for was 7 days of wilderness camping, not long-distance hiking with access to resupply every few days. I started out ambitious and content that all my research and experienced hikers’ brain picking was sufficient, but reality was far different from talk.  Duh.
Then I began praying and talking to God, I wondered why I felt such a spiritual need to go on this journey just to have it grind me into the ground so quickly. He reminded me of my original intentions and reasoning for being out there. Jesus didn’t carry a 3 pound weather-proof solar charger, Moses didn’t have an assortment of food options (peanut butter with crackers and snickers or pre-flavored tuna on bagels with a Cliff bar, or maybe custom gorp on the side of my dehydrated chili mac and cheese with beef.) I wanted to have a walking experience like they had, a moment in their life to think, pray and learn. What I had done was surround myself with luxuries, like a 3 person tent, cushioned seat with no legs for leaning back and enough duct tape to build another tent.
Getting ready for my first night on the trail
I’m not complaining about everything I brought, I just had to be reminded that I was having an awesome time! I had so much to keep me occupied and comfortable that I was on the wrong trip. I was having a great camping experience. Yes I was sick and hurting, but there wasn’t one moment when I didn’t feel so much joy and peace. I was exactly where I WANTED to be.
I stared off into the trees, the clouds grew darker as the sun set somewhere behind them. I laughed at myself for the situation I was in. I accepted my self-torture of the weight of my gear as a means to get the “camping” out of my system. I knew  each step on the Appalachian Trail was exactly where I was MEANT to be.
"Crap" hanging from a tree
The next morning, I unloaded my pack, put 35-40 pounds of “crap” up in a tree the same way you hang food at night to keep animals and bears out of it. I put a note in a ziplock next to where I tied off the rope on another tree. I wanted other hikers to know I’d be back for my “crap.” 6.5 miles later at another road crossing, two older guys gave me a ride to the hostel at Neel’s Gap, an AT hiker’s paradise. They provide shelter, a warm meal, and a full service outfitter for hikers like me don’t who have the right gear or too much “crap.” They say they ship out an average of 9,000 pounds of hikers’ “crap” each year.
There I talked to other hikers, compared notes, learned how to test the right gear and had a ton of questions answered. Not to mention a hot meal, it was October Fest at the hostel. A beer, a brat and German cake where exactly what the doctor ordered. My bunk mates were two guys in their mid-60s, one headed north, the other south. They gave me tons of useful, much needed advice. The south bounder, or SOBO it’s called, had everything he needed in his pack weighing in at 29 pounds. Mine weighed 40, and that was only with the tent, sleeping bag/pad, 2 liters of water and a day’s worth of food, my other gear was still hanging in a tree. The next morning, I felt ten times better, more learned about the ways of long-distance hiking and ready to figure out what to do next.
I spent a couple more days in those mountains. I hiked back to my “crap,” made camp off the trail at a state park and did some day hiking. I spent a good amount of checking off items in my pack that had to be replaced with something better (including the pack itself), dumped or what I was missing to achieve a true long-distance hiking experience.
Before I made the very difficult decision to not officially get back on the trail where I left off, I met other hikers who were in my same shoes. Apparently I wasn’t the only one who ran into trouble this close to the start of the trail. They had reasons ranging from lack of skill, too much weight, not enough time, not for them or “that was good enough.” I left the Appalachian Trail due to a cold that wasn’t going away, but thankfully not getting any worse, and realizing in order to continue I have to invest a lot of money in mostly new and lightweight gear. I could have stuck around, bought all the gear at Neel’s Gap and waited for the cold to pass, but I knew I’d be coming back either way and I’d hit the trail fresh and prepared the right way.
The AT cuts right through the hostel at Neel's Gap
This trip fulfilled every reason I wanted to go this late in the season. I thought it would take me between 2 weeks to a month to learn what I have, but 5 days was all that was needed. I wanted to get hands on experience of the trail and make sure it was something that my soul connected with. I didn’t want to waste any more time of support of others if it wasn’t for me, which I was ready to admit if that be the case.
I am in love with the Appalachian Trail and each step it takes to hike the entire thing. When I return in 2013, I will be prepared to hike all 2,178 miles. There will be moments when you can only hike 1.5 miles in 4 hours when the way gets treacherous and 20 miles a day when the way opens its arms to you.
Yes, plans change. This blog has been covering each new plan as it comes along, from starting the trail in May as a thru-hike then pushing it off until August and then a short trip in September instead. Now it’s looking like a late March to early April return next is the next goal. Time and money are not on my side. To hike the AT will cost several thousand dollars, that includes gear, food, resupplying, paying off bills ahead of time, travel costs and more. My previous estimates for the Kickstarter project were way off, I’m happy that didn’t work out. Timing is crucial, family and loved ones make it difficult to be away from for long amounts of time. I know committing to the Triple Crown trails will take a long time, but I know it will pay off in the long run. But it still means missed memories, which I hope I won’t regret.
One of the nicer shelters along the trail
Keep following the blog, I’ll have more updates throughout the winter.
I’m back in Sarasota, FL to work for my uncle for another month, and then I’m going home to Colorado. When I’m not working or spending quality time with friends and family, I’ll be hiking and breaking in new gear. Preparation for this kind of long-distance hike is much more than just hitting the gym; all my shoulder presses and weight lifting didn’t make that 80 pound backpack any lighter.

I want to thank everyone who has supported me so far: you all have made this recent journey happen.
Mom and Dad; thank you for your moral support, the tent and sleeping bag and prayers.
Melanie; thank you for your encouraging words. I’m happy you and Blake had an amazing Pacific Coast highway adventure!
Uncle Don; thank you for your words of wisdom, advice, inviting me into your home, and being a dear friend.
Grandpa Tony, Grandma Marilyn, Jerad Birch, the Oakleys, Mr. and Mrs. Riddell, Nana, the Walkers, Big Mike; thank you for your kind words, your prayers, and encouraging support.
Lauren; thank you for the harmonica, it came in handy on those lonely nights.